Central Australian gardening tips that stood the test of time

Mulch is mighty

Mulch is a protective layer that is added to the top of your soil. About 5-10cm of mulch is recommended. Organic mulches include straw, hessian, hay and woodchips. Mulch, ideally, should be composted or aged to reduce the risk of burning and depleting nutrients from the soil.

 It can be tempting to use plastic sheeting under mulch as a weed retardant. It’s recommended that you don’t as it’s known to suffocate the soil.

Inorganic mulches include river stones, aggregates and sand. They protect the soil but don’t add nutrients.

Mulch can:

•  Reduce evaporation so you can reduce watering.

•  Stabilise soil temperature, keeping it cooler in summer and warmer in winter.

•  Improve soil structure and provide nutrients. Organic mulch adds nutrients and nitrogen for healthier plants.

•  Reduce weed growth.

•  Look attractive and give character to the garden.

Choosing and applying mulch:

•  Green waste mulch can have unwanted seeds and pests in it so make sure it has been well-composted.

•  If using inorganic mulch protect plants from reflected heat by using well-composted organic mulch directly under the plants.

•  Regularly check beneath mulch to make sure moisture is getting through. Thick, compacted mulch can stop gas exchange and water from getting to the soil.

•  Don’t put mulch right up to the plant stem to prevent collar rot, slater and larvae damage.

Boosting your soil- Compost, manure and organic matter

Adding organic matter, such as compost or manure, is one of the best things you can do for soil. Compost and manure add nutrients needed for plant growth and improve soil structure. Manures can be alkaline, which should be considered if you have acid-loving plants. Worm farms (vermicomposting) work but you need to protect the worms from summer heat and keep them moist.

Watering your garden

Longer, less frequent watering is better than short daily watering in most cases. It encourages hardy plants to establish deep root systems and pushes any existing salt past the root zone.

As with most rules, there are exceptions. Plants with shallow root systems, like seedlings and vegetables, need frequent light watering. Very sandy soils will not hold water and need frequent light waterings.

Water at the right time

Water your garden in the early morning (preferable) or late evening when it is cool. If you water during the day, too much water will evaporate potentially leaving your plant short when it needs it the most.

Water growing plants only

Don’t water parts of the garden that don’t grow. It is too common to see overspray and run-off onto concrete. Set up irrigation to deciduous trees and vines so it can be turned off or reduced when they are dormant.

Zoning- stay in your lane

Good zoning means placing plants with similar water needs together, so that they are all on one irrigation line. You can then control the amount of water that goes to plants on different lines. If zoning is poor, i.e. if citrus trees and natives are on the same line, the citrus will be under-watered and the natives will be over-watered.

Drip irrigation for the win

Drip irrigation wins the water efficiency game. It is ideal for catering to individual plant needs but only if it’s installed and used properly.

Water is delivered to the root zone where it is needed, encouraging deep strong roots. Fewer weeds grow because water is applied very specifically and best of all drip is versatile; you can add or remove drippers as needed.

Looking after dripper systems

•  Check lines at least once a year for leaks and blockages.

•  Cover pipes with mulch or soil. Sun exposure increases calcium build-up and plastic deterioration.

•  Drippers can get blocked by ants, dirt, calcium and more. Clear blockages by dismantling drippers and soaking in vinegar.

•  Dripper diaphragms can corrode and get eaten by ants so look for ant-resistant ones. Labyrinth-style drippers have no diaphragms but get blocked easily.

•  Salt can build up on the edge of the dripper zone in some soils if there has been little rain to wash it down. Give a deep flush watering (about 20-30L) once a year to help reduce this.

•  If you cut through the dripper pipe, fix it immediately. Flush any dirt out, cut the pipes cleanly and splice with a joiner and clamps.

•  Install a filter and clean it regularly.

Sprinklers

Pop-up sprinklers are generally used for lawns. Single movable sprinklers can be used but are usually inefficient. They need to be manually moved and are prone to overspray, not to mention forgetting about them. Some simple tips for sprinklers include

Don’t water when windy, the water will blow off target.

Use gear-driven sprinklers with fat drops, not fine mists, to reduce evaporation and overspray.

Make sure your sprinklers are evenly distributed or you will be tempted to overwater most of the lawn so that the dry patches get enough. The edge of one sprinkler spray should hit the next sprinkler.

Whilst not a sprinkler tip exactly, mowing your lawn to 4cm or higher will help reduce evaporation.

 

A properly designed sprinkler system will save you money and trouble in the long run. Based on your garden design and the size and location of plants and shrubbery, choose the size and style of sprinkler head that best suits your needs. Different sprinkler heads deliver different amounts and pressures of water. Consult a local garden centre for your own garden needs or pre order your copy of the Central Australian Ultimate Irrigation User Guide.

 

Native Gardens

Native gardens are hardy, low maintenance and attract wildlife. Most importantly, they can be very water efficient! Australian plants that aren’t indigenous to Central Australia can also grow well here but choose species suited to hot summers and infertile soils.

Local native plants don’t need much water after they’re established. For the first three or four years give them a regular soak. Large deep-rooted trees (like Eucalypts) don’t need watering after the first couple of years.

Don’t worry if natives don’t grow much in summer– it’s their slow time.

 

Our Ultimate Irrigation Guide for Central Australia will be available early in 2026, if you'd like to be one of the first to get a copy, send us an email at savewater@powerwater.com.au.